Scottish Catholic Observer

Going on pilgrimage to Rome is a trip that many Catholics look forward to, especially at this time of year. The Holy Father’s Christmas calendar includes his Christmas Eve Mass, a Christmas Day speech, vespers on New Year’s Eve and Masses on January 1 and 6.

For the majority of Catholics in Scotland the cultural ties to Europe are strong with a particular relationship and affection for Ireland. Similarly a Catholic education also provides a historical and significant bond to Rome mainlining straight into the roots of the faith. I once travelled to a football match in Milan from Germany on a mini-bus with a troop of German Celtic supporters; we managed to cover a fair section of Europe but unfortunately I never made it to Rome; until now. My wife on the other hand is well travelled in Italy, having previously visited Venice, Verona, Florence, Rimini and previously Rome where she received a Papal blessing from Pope John Paul II. Despite this being my first time I somehow felt familiar with the city at once, finding myself nostalgically reflecting on my own school days and wondering why I have never gone on a pilgrimage here until now. While I might not have said it at the time, reflecting over the years I have began to value my Catholic education at St Thomas of Aquin’s High school in Edinburgh more in adult life. It often comes up when I meet my former teachers John and Mary Dames at Celtic matches and we reminisce on some of the rich characters and stories from our community.

When you wander through St Peter’s Square on a bright but cool day it undoubtedly freshens up the senses and the soul. Priests are smoking fragrant cigars and carrying black leather brief cases alongside nuns making their way towards another day of devotion. A flock of pigeons disappear into a mass of cloud and blue sky while tourists struggle under the weight of their belongings. Then there are the Vatican Guards, you can’t fail to miss their colourful uniforms, designed by Michelangelo. All of this makes up a vivid picture on arrival as you wander to the open area in front of the basilica.

It is impossible to imagine a more beautiful space to meander freely and collect your thoughts as you gasp in awe at this monumental baroque design with its grand colonnades welcoming you into the centre of Christendom. In what would have been the major commission of the Renaissance, it was redesigned by the deeply religious Bernini during the Counter Reformation. The Papal Basilica itself has been described as the greatest work from the Renaissance period; it is clear to see why once inside and looking at the spellbinding interiors. Spatially it is similar to strolling around in a giant football stadium and it takes a good ten minutes before you can even begin to digest the magnitude of the artistry and architecture. Significantly this was also the final resting place of Bonnie Prince Charlie, yet another figure that emerged as a folk hero in Scottish Catholic life.

The emotion and spirit is palpable when you reach the tomb of Pope John Paul II. Growing up I had a drawer where I kept Rosary beads, prayer cards and various articles of remembrance from my Catholic upbringing. Also in there was a book of collected poems by Karol Wojtyla, the cover image was particularly memorable with the author in a red cloak and white robes with his hand in the air addressing the faithful. Stories from the Pope’s visit to Scotland in 1982 never fail to capture my imagination even now.

Once again in later life I have got to understand him as one of the most significant and popular leaders of our time, a man that genuinely wanted to make the world a better place. His tomb and final resting place is simple and appropriate, as were his wishes. Once again this is another reflective point for people, some quietly praying, some in tears and others paying their respects among the flowing throng.

The Sistine Chapel displaying the work of renaissance artists Michelangelo, Raphael, Bernini and Botticelli continues to be another massive draw. On the ceiling there are nine depictions from the book of Genesis, the picture displaying the creation of Adam by Michelangelo is perhaps one of the most common postcard images from the tourist stalls but there’s something about seeing the real work in all its glory and hearing the story behind it which makes this tour all the more memorable. The painting of The Last Judgement once again has to be seen to be believed close up. Undoubtedly the area is full of many quirks; for religious and political reasons The Vatican City has remained a separate sovereign state inside of Rome since 1929 and boasts its own postal service, we bought a collection of Pope John Paul II postcards, affixed the Vatican stamps and sent them back to our family and friends in Scotland with a hastily scrawled ‘wish you were here.’

The underground tour of the Necropolis is well worth doing but not if you are claustrophobic or asthmatic as it’s damp and cramped once you’re down there.

We had another excellent tour guide, an unassuming American academic called Peter who had to put up with the bolshie and rude behaviour of two female Italian guides on either side of him. Thankfully they were out of the road when it came to retracing the steps of St Peter. We walked around the area, according to Catholic tradition where Peter was martyred. This is the same area which was visited by pilgrims for hundreds of years after his death until the Church was built. His bones were excavated from the spot in 1950 and are also visible on the tour. It is an arresting moment when you can personally witness the earthly remains of the man that was one of the 12 apostles and at the centre of the greatest story ever told. Along with St Paul who was also said to have been martyred in Rome you are surrounded by the history of men that shaped the culture and spiritual health of the western world. Perhaps it is the result of a Catholic education but a trip to Rome and particularly the Vatican made me feel nostalgic about a place I had never been. The combination of the ancient and modern captivates the mind and charges the spirit.

I hope the coin thrown in the Trevi Fountain will deliver its promise of a quick return to this foreign city that felt like home.